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Dressing like a Gentleman - Introduction
IT would seem
that some of our great clothing establishments, with an eye to our polyglot
ancestry, have attempted to incorporate some feature of every European national
costume into a “harmonious” whole, and have thus given us that abiding horror,
the freak American suit, You will see it everywhere, in every city and Main
Street of every town, on the boardwalks and beaches of coast resorts, and even
in remote farming villages. It comes up to hit you in the face year after year
in all its amazing variations: waist-line under the arm pits, “trick” little
belts, what-nots in the cuffs; trousers so narrow you fear they will burst
before your eyes, pockets placed in every position, buttons clustered together
in a tight little row or reduced to one. And the worst of it is, few of our
younger men know any better until they go abroad and find their wardrobe a
subject for jest and derision.
If you would dress like a gentleman, you must do one of two
things; either study the subject of a gentleman's wardrobe until you are
competent to pick out good suits from freaks and direct your misguided tailor,
or, at least until your perceptions are trained, go to an English one. This
latter method is the easiest, and, by all odds, the safest. It is not Anglomania
but plain common sense to admit that, just as the Rue de la Paix in Paris is the
fountainhead of fashions for women, Bond Street in London is the home of
irreproachable clothes for men.
The ordinary run of English clothes may not be especially
good, but they are, on the other hand, never bad. But not even the leading
tailors of Bond Street can excel the supremely good American tailor-whose
clothes however are identical in every particular with those of London, and
their right to be called “best” is for greater perfection of workmanship and
fit. This last is a dangerous phrase; “fit” means perfect set and line, not
plaster tightness.
However, let us suppose that you are either young, or at
least fairly young; that you have unquestioned social position, and that you are
going to get yourself an entire wardrobe. Let us also suppose your money is not
unlimited, so that it may also be seen where you may not, or may if necessary,
economize.